Sampling process in apparel industry

Sampling is a process of making a product proto-type prior to starting bulk production. The same process is applied to garment sampling. In mass garment manufacturing, where apparel brands source garments in bulk quantity, sample making is an essential step before placing the bulk order. The prototype objective of the sampling is to eliminate the risk of making a wrong purchase of raw material or making a mistake in bulk manufacturing that is not accepted by the buyer. Sampling process covers garment fit checking, fabric and trims quality checking, approval value-added processes, and approval of complete finished garment. Most of the buyers have a standard requirement for garment sampling for the product for sourcing the bulk garment – what types of samples they need; when they need it; and how many pieces are needed for each sample type.

Sampling process involved many sub-processes including pattern making, pattern grading for different sizes, fabric development, processing of fabrics, raw material sourcing (choosing right fabrics and other trims), making garment including printing and embroidery processes (if required), sample checking and sample approval from buyers. During the sampling process, normally the buyer asks for changes if required multiple times as required to get the perfect sample. Suppliers need to re-submit the sample if the sample is not fulfilled the specifications and buyer’s requirement at the first submission.

Types of Garment Samples

Mock-up

The mock-up sample is the first rendition of a designer’s concept. Sometimes an idea does not translate as well on paper as it does on fabric, and this is where a mock-up comes in handy. It does not require any trimming and serves only to determine whether the garment is viable or not. Because not all designs necessitate a mock-up, not every designer or factory uses these types of samples.

Proto or development sample

The production cycle begins with the proto sample. Factories either follow the original sketch or a tech pack supplied by the designer. The idea is to only look at the style and design aesthetics, so it doesn’t have to be built according to the full specifications. Depending on availability, any fabric and trim of similar weight can be used. In most cases, three prototypes are created: two for the brand/reference designer’s and one for the factory’s reference.

Digital garment sample

A digital sample is 3D software rendering of the garment that allows the visualization of fit and fall in both stillness and movement. However, a complicated learning curve and high implementation costs may be the technology’s limiting factors. However, if brands can overcome this barrier, 3D printing can significantly reduce sample production costs and approval time between designers and factories.

Fit sample

Fit samples, as the name implies, are made to ensure the proper fit and fall of the garments and are made in accordance with the sizing requested by the brand. To pass the fit evaluation, measurements and construction must be accurate and correct. The fit sample can be made of the same fabric as the final design, and many adjustments may be required before the desired fit is achieved. At this point, you only need to include sample size specifications in your tech pack.

Size set sample

After the fit sample has been approved, the base pattern for each size must be graded so that samples for the entire size range can be created. Size set sampling includes three samples of each size made with the fabric and finishing’s that will be used in the final product. When the brand has given their approval to the factories, mass production can begin.

Salesman sample

As the name suggests, the salesman samples or SMS are the samples that are used for marketing and promotions of the product range. They are made with the final fabrics and final touches in the approved basic sizes. These are generally put on display in retail stores or exhibited at trade shows to get orders from respective retail channels.

GPT sample

GPT sample refers to the production sample that is given for “Garment Performance Test”. These samples are used for a series of tests that a brand would like to evaluate before running the styles for production. The tests can include seam strength, seam slippage, colorfastness, and wash fastness, among others.

Pre-production sample

A pre-production sample is the first sample made in the actual production line of the factory. It’s constructed with the actual fabrics intended for the design and trims with all the order specifications regarding measurements, embroidery, and washes. It’s a test run by the factory and they can proceed with the bulk production only when the PP sample is approved by the brand

Sealed sample

Once the PP sample is approved by the brand, they are sealed to prevent tampering from the factory and now become the standard for bulk production. They are also known as gold-seal samples or red-seal samples, depending on the approval, or disapproval of the brand.

TOP (Top of production) sample

After the approval of the PP sample, which signals the start of production, the Quality Control inspector representing a brand can visit the factory at any time and pick a garment from the production line for inspection. These samples are called “Top of production or TOP samples” and they are evaluated to ensure that the bulk production is of the same quality as the PP sample. TOP samples are also checked for their packaging.

Shipment sample

Once the bulk production is done and the shipment is finished, packed, and ready to go, a few samples are kept aside by the factory as shipment samples. These serve as to test the final product that will reach the brand; right from the folding to the packaging. Many brands will only approve shipping if the samples pass this test.

Press samples

Press samples are exact replicas of the final sellable product, usually in a model’s sample size. They’re used for photographing promotional material like collection campaigns for advertising, look books, e-commerce and can be loaned to magazines for editorial photo shoots.

The main purposes of the sampling process in the garment industry are given below:

To allow the buyer to judge the production capabilities of the manufacturer.
To provide a means for making revisions in the bulk production process.
To let the manufacturer estimate the thread and fabric consumption, and develop cost quotations.
To let the buyer know the potential of an exporter.
For understanding of the process flow, machine requirement, raw material consumption, risk analysis of making the new garment design (called as style),and product costing.